Friday, April 28, 2017

Take a walk on the Wyrd side

Come, friends. Let us take the air among the tangleroots and fire berries. Just stay close, the Wyrdwood is no place for wandering.


 Welcome to The Wyrdwood!  I have an O-fficial WEBSITE.

Never fear, this humble blog will continue to plod along, but this puts art and minis all in one spot.

Check it out here and book mark it

There will be comics, bi weekly starting in mid May as well as a store for cool stuff.

Cheers yall!

Monday, April 24, 2017

From the Workbench: The Sons of DOOooom.

I'm on vacation.... or staycation, to be more precise. One of the projects will be overhauling the art/hobby room. New furniture and a new layout.  So, while rifling around through the clutter I got a little squirrely and finished up one of the creeps that had been sitting on my desk. This got me thinking about my Nurgly guard army....well, that and a bits order I just made from Poland.

The gun creep, like the old radio creeps can be used as stub gunners for cultists or as heavy bolters in a weapons crew for the Guard army.  So here's number 1


I had another guy started a while back, so I got to work on him as well. He still has a ways to go, but here's the start.


Another thing that has been bugging me for a while, was what to do with my Nurgle Blight Knights. I've toyed with everything from plague marines to terminators to obliterators.  After doing my Warpsmith. it occured to me what great "special people" these guys could make in the Guard army. Commisars, Techmarines, etc.   So here's the beginning of my first Commisar for the Sons of DOOoom.


I plan on sculpting the arm around the pinned zombie hand and I'll have to give him a side arm and some other 40k stuff... as well as a little custom sculpting.

The overhaul of the artroom starts in a couple days as well as the impending launch of a proper art website. Busy week ahead, but I'll try to get some more hobby in.

Cheers Ya'll!

Wednesday, April 19, 2017

Sculpt-stravaganza!

I did more sculpting than painting since last I posted.  I did, however get Ms. Charlotte's back basically done.  I saved the rusty hoses and such for when I do the other parts, but the fleshy bitz are done on her back. 


On to the Warpsmith. First an in progress shot of the flamer mount and such.


I wasn't fond of the hanging hose and I wanted some more  "gribby meets machine" stuff going on.  Also have some nice fatty looking sacs on the back.  After that set, it was one more two part sculpting session and he is ready for basing and priming! Here's the final result.



I had to let things dry at a couple points and had pre-mixed green stuff, so I worked on finishing my Plaguebearer Herald.


I'll get these two primed in the next couple days and pick away at all the details on Ms. Charlotte's body.  Next week I have a "staycation" which may effect hobby time a little since one of the two projects I'm going to do is rearanging/organizing my art space.  I'm sure I'll find all sorts of cool stuff in there that I've forgotten about. ;)

Cheers Ya'll!

Tuesday, April 11, 2017

Needs more gribbly.....

Put some time in on Ms. Charlotte and the Warpsmith in the last couple days.  I noticed my faithful pot of GW Althonian Camoshade was getting pretty low (I have about a half dozen others), so I decided to make a pre-thinned pot. The mix came out around 1/3- camoshade/acrylic matte medium/Universal solvant (water).  I also did a 50/50 mix of GW Orgyn Camo and Screaming Skull and did a really light drybrush to pick out all the sculpted details on the fleshy bits on the back, between the wings. This led to picking out a few details on the wings themselves, then a light wash of the pre mixed shade. The upper wing membranes are DONE.  The arms still need some attention.


As for the bit in the middle, I started going into the deeper recesses and places I want shaded with a mix of GW Althonian Camoshade and Druchii Purple.  I usually thin this about half with water, then go with a thicker wash or a second light wash if I want a deeper tone.  Next comes the bloody/inflamed areas.  I have a home brew I call "Bloody Red" which is basically, GW Scab Red, with brown ink, acrylic medium and a little water.  There might be some purple in there too, honestly, I mixed at least a year ago.  Combined in different parts with the other two shades, you can get some really gross, interesting colors that are much less the "spaghetti Western red" of the GW Blood for the Blood God technical paint.


Top is the unholy trinity, with a puddle of gore in front of them.  Below is a comparison of color, tone and consistancy.  My wash is also NOT glossy. That comes later.

So I picked out some inflamed/ bloody areas with the blood wash. Eventually, they will enjoy a little dry brush here a little underpainting there to get my eventual desired gribbliness.  What that is, I can't tell you right now, but I'll know it as it happens. :) I can tell you it will involve more repetition of "wash, drybrush, shade, repeat" than a sane person would force themselves to do. But I gave up on sanity at least 20 years ago.


NOW... on to the as-yet-unnamed Warpsmith.  I decided to read the Codex entry before getting back to work on him and realized the Chaos guys have most of the goodies the Loyalist techmarines do- melta/flamer in the mechandrites, etc.  SO... I tore off the two metal pieces I had and began fabricating some arms from some plague fly bits.   First, every techy needs a chompy head vice. Here is the beginning of his (still very much in progress.)


I used some chainsword blades and motors to make the head. I'll be shaving some of the sculpting down as metal, then kind of move toward the organic. Its likely to be a bit beefier and nasty looking when finished.

Then I added the two other arms, made from smaller plague fly legs, and did some sculpting of tentacles, mechandrites.  Of course, he needed an axe, so I cobbed one together and here he is as he stands.  (still some detailing to do, especially when the vice arm is added)




Still have to bulk out/organify the flamer, which will have a questionable looking fuel source. More sculpting and nastyness on the back to make everything blend in, especially after adding the vice arm. But, there he is so far!

Cheers Yall!

Wednesday, April 5, 2017

Vision vs Execution.

The main focus of this post was to be how I paint with thin washes.  I was going to explain in detail the process.  Then I started painting.  And it all went to shit.  So, here's my best effort at being instructional after the fact. Forgive me in advance if you are an experienced painter, I'm going to present this with more of the "I've only painted with solid colors. I never knew you could do that" crowd in mind.

Acrylic paints are made to be thinned.  As the official GW (we still have you painting with solid colors) vids even say, two thin coats. What many inexperienced painters don't realize is the multitude of cool things you can do paining acrylics on a 3D surface (mini...in this case). Not coincidentally, they are most of the cool things you can do on a flat surface.

Citadel has been nice enough to mix acrylic medium with pigment and make their most excellent washes. Although, if you knew the breakdown in costs of the what is used to make said washes, vs paint... you might feel a bit ....violated. Personally, I think its worth the convenience, that way I don't have to worry about getting all the ratios perfect. These washes, as you may have noticed, really do have a nice burst of transparent color. And, it gets even cooler when you water them down.  Like a normal paint you can mix them, glaze them over other colors, glaze them over other glazes (preferably after they are dry). While I wanted to get in depth with all the things I've discovered I can do with them (and there are doubtlessly more) I just started painting and didn't take any notes.  Nearly 40 years of painting have made too much of it second nature... and I don't think.  For the future... my wife has suggested videos.  Probably not a bad idea.

SO.... here's the progression on Charlotte's wings. Described the best I can, below.  Some of the differences are subtle and may not have transfered well in pictures.



 First pic: Left wing is the base, right wing is one thinned (50/50) coat of Althonian Camoshade. (I'll be using that a LOT
Then some Gryphonne Sepia (50/50).  I let each wash dry before I put on the next one and I make sure I collect the gathered wash out of the creases and cracks with a dry brush.  Those slower drying blobs of color can mess you up later.

stippling

  1. 1 :  to engrave by means of dots and flicks
  2. 2a :  to make by small short touches (as of paint or ink) that together produce an even or softly graded shadow b :  to apply (as paint) by repeated small touches
Yup, you can do it with paint. I do it all the time. What they don't tell you is to start with a loaded brush (not over loaded or underloaded) and apply as little pressure as possible when you start. As one of my art professors used to say constantly "Its not a bad thing to have to go back for more paint or to water the brush."  His main point, usually is painting in general is an additive process, but in most additive processes its much easier to add a little and add some more , rather than add too much and not be able to take it away. (I hope that makes sense, I'm told I can go on for hours like that...)

After the greenish, then yellowish wash. I put a nice blob or Althoinian Camoshade(olive), Gryphonne Sepia and Druchii Purple (all known by their basic colors from here onwards). Add a generous few brush loads of water and onward.  Do I use an actual wet pallet? No.... but my regular diposable pallet is pretty wet at the moment.  I mix the purple and olive and occasionally a little sepia and a couple layers of stippling begin. I wanted the mottling a bit darker toward the "fingers" so I mottled on the mottling.  Here's where the whole "wait until the other wash dries" thing kinda goes down the rabbit hole.  In this case some of the mixing is OK. What you have to avoid, is mixing at the wrong part of the drying process. There's this tacky,plasticy period just before it mattes down and dries, where if you hit it with a wash you can actually life all the washes right off.  So, pay attention.


Let everybody dry good. I went and had a snack, played with my kittens and came back to it. Then, I did a very light dry brush along the raised detail and fleshy edges with a light tan (it could have been Screaming Skull or P3 Thrall Flesh... kind of betting on the latter)  This mattes everything down well and kind of makes it all look like it was painted with one crazy brush stroke. I have to admit this is one place the camera fails us (and I took about 6 photos, plus messed with it in the editor) If you zoom in, you might be able to see all the other colors showing through.  We're not done.... just for kicks, I then do a thinned (60 water/40 shade) was with a mix of the Sepia and Olive. (40/60)


It greens it up a little, though very subtle and another light ,light drybrush to flatten it all down.  Ms Charlotte's Dorsal view  has become a damn sight prettier....er well, the wings are done.  And yes, this whole time she was upside down on the desk.

Lord knows, you don't need to get so complicated with whatever project you might think of washing like this, but layers DO matter. They add depth and richness of color.  One thing I can't stress enough is experiment. You'll find things that won't work, but you'll find things that do. Even if you aren't trying to be a trophy winning miniature painter, but are serious in expanding your abilities, the first and most important thing I can tell you to buy...even more important than good brushes, though that's #2 (and by good I don't always mean the most expensive, but that's another post all together) is...a COLORWHEEL.  In-friggin-valuable.  Not sure I want to get into spouting on and off about color theory and such, but in a nutshell knowing a colors compliments and values is a very simple way to take a mediocre piece and turn it into a wowzer.  One way I apply this is using Druchii Purple to darken Althonian Camoshade, for example. If there is any interest, let me know and I can get into that all in more depth another time.

The other thing I recommend to any painter is stepping back from your work when ever you can, even for a bathroom break or a snack... OR...as I like to do, having a building/sculpting project to work on nearby. "Cleaning the eyeballs, as well as the brushes" as the aforementioned instructor would say. The guy had an awesome Lithuanian accent too.

So according to the Traitor Legions Codex, Warpsmiths are all the rage. Or at least a necessity if you want to run some of the formations.  Well, I'd been at a bit of a loss on how to procede with Spumegut (or whatever they call him) so here we go.....


I added an old arm to the gribbies I already had on him, as he lingured on the ready-5 desk for the past few months.  Then I needed a few breaks to let washes dry and this happened.


I'm at the "He might be getting a bit busy" or "Go big or go home" decision point with mechandrites and such. He still needs a forearm too.  Sculpting something like this is not unlike the wash painting. It involves planning, layers and a bit of "here... hold my beer" The next couple of days are busy for me, so I'll have some time away from him to look at him with fresh eyes.

Cheers Ya'll!